The Chronicle of Georgia: A Hidden Gem in Tbilisi’s Landscape

Tucked away on the outskirts of Tbilisi, atop a small mountain, stands one of the city’s most impressive yet least visited monuments—the Chronicle of Georgia. Designed by renowned contemporary artist Zurab Tsereteli, this colossal structure is a tribute to Georgian history and Christianity, commemorating the 3000th anniversary of Georgian statehood and the 2000th anniversary of the spread of Christianity in the region.

My friend Suzanne, a fellow adventurer, had a sudden urge one morning to visit this towering monument. At 7:30 a.m., she pinged me on WhatsApp, asking if I wanted to join her. Although groggy from sleep, I couldn’t resist the chance to check off an item on my Tbilisi bucket list, so I agreed to meet her at the Marshanavili Metro Station.

As we made our way to the monument, it became clear that this early morning trip was well worth the effort. The Chronicle of Georgia sits majestically above the city, commanding sweeping views of Soviet-era housing blocks on one side and the serene Tbilisi Sea, a large recreational lake, on the other.

The monument itself is an awe-inspiring collection of towering columns, each over 10 stories high, adorned with intricate bas-relief carvings depicting scenes from Georgian history and the life of Christ. Though some have dubbed it “Georgia’s Stonehenge,” the monument lacks the ancient mystery of its English counterpart. However, it stands as a powerful symbol of Georgian pride and faith, a modern icon dedicated to the nation’s rich cultural heritage.

Despite its grandeur, the Chronicle of Georgia remains unfinished, with some elements seemingly missing. But this adds to the monument’s allure, leaving visitors to wonder what might still be in store for this impressive work of art.

Accompanying the monument is the small and somewhat lonely chapel of St. Nino, named after the evangelist credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia. Although we were eager to explore the chapel, a rather gruff security guard firmly informed us that it was closed, ending our curiosity on that front.

Reaching the Chronicle of Georgia isn’t easy. The monument is far from the city center, and public transportation can be tricky. My friend and I lost our way at first, but we eventually found ourselves on a muddy path leading through residential areas and sparse forest, with the dark columns of the monument looming above us. A couple of locals pointed us in the right direction, and after scaling a fence to reach the back of the monument, we finally arrived.

One of the most remarkable aspects of visiting the Chronicle of Georgia is its peaceful and almost sleepy atmosphere. Unlike other major tourist attractions, there are no crowds, no vendors selling souvenirs or food, and no hustle and bustle. The site is completely free to visit, and it seems to be open 24 hours a day, allowing visitors to take their time and reflect on the monument’s significance in peace.

For those seeking a quiet, contemplative experience far from the usual tourist hotspots, the Chronicle of Georgia is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. But with its breathtaking views, intricate artwork, and serene surroundings, it’s only a matter of time before more people uncover this remarkable site. So, if you’re planning a trip to Tbilisi, make sure to visit the Chronicle of Georgia before the secret gets out.